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Penmaen Head
A current overview (28/07/08) by M. Doyle
Development of this crag complex is now substantially complete. There are 6 separate sectors which can be accessed via the public footpath at the top layby parking by the Gladedale apartment development which replaced the hotel 70 degrees.
My personal involvement has been with the 29 routes listed below.
Norman Clacher has been involved in developing the great majority of the other routes which amount to approximately 18. The total route tally is currently 56.
Some lower-off bolts are already showing signs of wear especially where they are shared by routes. Please use you own quick draws for lowering off as muh as possible (last person threads) to minimise wear. Mallions / steel crans are been fitted.
After a clean up by the club the place is looking extremely clean and quite attractive. Please take your litter home and pick up any you see. Thanks.
There is no loose rock on any of these routes. The "stuck-on holds" are actually quite sound and have had some heavy use. They also give some of the routes their character.
A guide book will be produced by myself for Ground Up Publications which will also include other local developments. This will not be available until next year.
It is not possible to be objective when grading routes when so closely involved in cleaning and working them so feedback on grades is welcome as is feedback on route quality and any other issues. mjdoyle1@yahoo.com
Max length of routes - 18 metres. The status of the routes I've been involved in only is thus:
Flowstone wall
Lovely climbing. 12 routes.
L to R:1.6a
2. 5+
3. 5
4. 6a Harder at start.
5. 6b
6. 6a Up to the Flowstone veneer
7. 6a+ Start left end of ledge
8. 6b Reachy
9. 6b+
10. 6a+ The big flake and overhand
11. 6a
12. 6b+
The following routes share lower offs; Routes 1,2,3. Routes 5,6,7. Routes 8,9.
Wen Wall
Small but exquisite. 5 routes. 2 sets of lower offs accessed from the ledge.
L to R:1. 6a
2. 6c
3. 6b+
4. 6a
5. severe
Railway Tunnel Wall
From left. 3 routes at 6a. Steep. the first 2 routes top out up the bank and a sling on an iron spike at the the bottom of Expressway Wall is used to lower off. Route 3 tops out and a long sling is used over a substantial piece of iron just over the lip to lower off. Walk around to retrieve.
There is a low level V3 traverse below these routes.
Expressway Wall.
11 routes, all good quality on very rough limestone.
L - R:1. 5+ Steep but good holds
2. 6c Move up just left of the second bolt.
3. 6c Pumpy
4. 6b+ The prow direct
5. 6b Finish R of prow on slab
6. 6b Up to groove
7. 6a+ The vague central groove
8. 6c+ Upper section thin and technical. May be 7a. Finish up groove
9. 6b Trend R with steep finishing moves up crack
10. 6b Trend R to step R into corner at bottom of the steep crack /groove
11. 6a As for route 10 to the corner then the RH crack line
These routes share lower offs: 1&2 6&7 8&9. Routes 8 & 9 also share the same start. Route 8 is direct and route 9 trends right from the 3rd bolt.
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